10 Best Trolling Motor Mounts for Inflatable Boats (October 2026) Verified Reviews
An inflatable boat has no transom. That single fact drives everything about adding a trolling motor, and it is why picking the best trolling motor mounts for inflatable boats feels harder than it should. A rigid hull gives you a flat panel, a bolt pattern and a place to hang the motor bracket. An inflatable gives you a soft, curved tube that changes shape every time you move.
So the mount is not an accessory here. It is the structural decision. Get it wrong and the bracket flexes, the bolts tear through the transom strip, or the motor ends up dangling off a suction cup that lets go at the worst moment. Get it right and the same boat behaves like a small fishing skiff.
Contents
We pulled together ten mounts that cover the real buying decision tree: OEM transom kits, universal clamp-on brackets, glue-pad track bars, rudder clamps that fix tracking in wind, and deck hardware for anchor points. Every rating and review count below comes straight from the product data, and the fitment notes come from manufacturer specifications rather than guesswork. We also pulled the [best inflatable boats with motors](https://www.rosenberryrooms.com/best-inflatable-boats-with-motors/) roundup if you are still choosing the boat itself.
One thing worth saying up front: no competitor on the search results page answers the question anglers actually stall on, which is what battery and what wiring to run. We cover that in its own section further down, alongside a step-by-step install walkthrough. If you are still picking a motor, our [best trolling motors](https://www.rosenberryrooms.com/best-trolling-motors/) guide covers the units themselves.
Top 3 Picks for Trolling Motor Mounts for Inflatable Boats in 2026
INTEX 68624EP Motor Mount Kit
- Fits motors up to 3.0 HP
- Marine plywood with aluminum support arms
- Attaches in minutes and disassembles for storage
Bullnose Rudder Clamp
- Fits 1 1/8 inch transom motor shafts
- Impact plastic with stainless steel screws
- USA manufactured
besttruck Universal Transom…
- Holds 55 to 80 lb thrust motors
- Stainless steel with black nylon body
- Four-hole installation
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The Intex kit wins the top slot on the strength of the largest review base in the group and a fitment list that names specific boat models. The Bullnose and the besttruck bracket take the other two spots because they solve two problems the Intex kit does not: steering in wind, and rigid universal support on a drilled flat stern.
Best Trolling Motor Mounts for Inflatable Boats (October 2026)
| Product | Features | |
|---|---|---|
| INTEX 68624EP Motor Mount Kit |
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| Bullnose Rudder Clamp |
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| besttruck Universal Transom Mount |
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 NyVoozy Rudder Clamp |
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 JCBIZ PVC Motor Fixing Brackets |
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 Bestway Motor Mount Kit |
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 Brocraft Inflatable Kayak Motor Mount |
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 Opheart Aluminum Transom Mount |
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 CWaveRow Flat Stern Transom Bracket |
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 CHGJ Heavy Duty Kayak Motor Mount |
|
Check Latest Price |
We earn from qualifying purchases. CERTAIN CONTENT THAT APPEARS ON THIS SITE COMES FROM AMAZON. THIS CONTENT IS PROVIDED 'AS IS' AND IS SUBJECT TO CHANGE OR REMOVAL AT ANY TIME.
Two of these are not full mounts at all. The JCBIZ brackets are adhesive anchor points for tow ropes, and both rudder clamps bolt to a motor shaft rather than a hull. They are here because a lot of inflatable setups end up needing them, but if you are starting from an empty boat, start with slots 1, 3, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.
1. INTEX 68624EP Motor Mount Kit – The OEM Transom Kit With the Longest Track Record
INTEX 68624EP Motor Mount Kit: Easy to Attach – Heavy-duty…
Fits motors up to 3.0 HP
Marine plywood and aluminum arms
4.8 lb
Surface mount
Pros
- Attaches in minutes to Intex boats with rear mount fittings
- Composite plate with aluminum support arms
- Disassembles for compact storage
- 4.7 stars across 8641 ratings
Cons
- Only fits listed Intex models
- Motor sold separately
- Requires existing rear mount fittings
This is the mount most inflatable anglers end up with, and for good reason. It bolts to the molded rear mount fittings on the back of compatible Intex boats and gives the motor a flat plywood face with aluminum support arms underneath. Intex lists Challenger 3, Seahawk 2, 3 and 4, Seahawk II, Excursion 3, 4 and 5, and Mariner 3 and 4 as compatible.
What stands out is how completely routine the install is. There is no drilling, no adhesive, and no clamp to torque. The plate lines up with the fittings, the bolts go in, and the motor bolts to the board. Reviewers consistently describe the whole job as a few minutes with basic tools, and the plate comes apart afterward so it fits in a garage shelf or a truck bed.
The 4.7 star average across 8641 ratings is the largest review base in this entire comparison, and that matters more than usual in a category where fitment is guesswork. With that many owners on the water, the failure modes people report are well documented and mostly cosmetic. Scuffs on the plywood, light surface wear on the fittings, nothing structural.
The weight is the one number worth planning around. At 4.8 lb, this is a substantial piece of hardware on a boat with a limited total load rating. On a 10 foot Mariner or Challenger, that mass sits at the very back of the hull where it actually helps trim the bow up, but it does shorten how much gear you can load up front.
Will this mount fit your specific inflatable?
Check the boat’s model number against Intex’s compatibility list before you buy anything else. The fittings are molded into specific hulls, so a Challenger 3 mount will not appear on a Mariner 4, and the plate will not reach the fittings on a boat that lacks them entirely.
If your boat is a Sea Eagle, Outcast, NRS or Bestway, this kit is the wrong purchase no matter how good the reviews look. Several of the search results we studied came from an r/boating thread where a Mariner 4 owner was already hunting for the correct mount after already owning the boat, which is exactly the compatibility problem that trips people up.
Where the limits show up
The 3.0 HP ceiling is the headline constraint. A 50 or 55 lb thrust electric motor falls well inside it, so most anglers never notice, but a gas outboard at the top of that range pushes the plate harder than the support arms were designed for.
The plywood is also a consumable. It is the right material for spreading motor load across the fittings, and it survives normal use, but it will eventually need sealing or replacing if you leave the boat in a wet garage all winter. Keep the motor off when the boat is not in use rather than leaving the full load sitting on the plate.
2. Bullnose Rudder Clamp – The Steering Fix Most Inflatable Anglers Add Second
Bullnose Rudder clamp on boat rudder fits a 1.125″ transom…
Fits 1 1/8 inch shafts
Rudder 10.5 x 4.75 inch
8.64 oz
USA made
Pros
- Noticeably better tracking in wind and chop
- Clamps to standard 1 1/8 inch shafts
- Impact plastic with stainless steel screws
- Installs in minutes
Cons
- Not compatible with self-deploy bow mounts
- Needs about 1 inch of exposed shaft for clearance
Here is the thing nobody tells you when you motor an inflatable: the motor is at the back, you are standing in the middle, and there is nothing behind you to keep the boat pointing where you want. In flat water it is fine. Add a crosswind or a boat wake and the bow starts hunting. This rudder is the cheapest cure we found in the whole set.
It is also not a mount, despite showing up on several competing “best mount” lists. It clamps to a 1 1/8 inch transom trolling motor shaft and hangs a 10.5 inch blade off the back, giving the motor a defined steering axis instead of letting it free-swivel. Owners on inflatable pontoons, fishing kayaks, canoes and jon boats report the same thing: the boat holds a line at slow trolling speed instead of drifting off.
Build quality is better than the price suggests. The body is impact plastic held together with stainless steel screws, made in the USA under patent D712,341S, and it weighs just 8.64 oz. Nothing about it flexes, which matters because a soft rudder blade would defeat the purpose entirely.
At 4.7 stars across 2259 ratings, this is the second most reviewed item we analyzed. That is not a trivial number for a small piece of hardware, and the reviews are consistent rather than scattered, which usually means the product does one thing well.
Does your motor shaft actually fit?
Measure the shaft before ordering. This clamp is built for standard 1 1/8 inch transom shafts, and it also works with hand cable pull bow mounts that leave about 1 inch of exposed shaft. If your motor has a self-deploy bow mount with no exposed shaft, this will not clamp and no amount of forcing it will change that.
Shaft diameter is the other trap. The NyVoozy clamp we cover later handles a different range, so measure once and match to the number rather than assuming all clamps are interchangeable.
When to skip it
If you only fish on a small pond in flat calm, you may never notice the difference. The rudder earns its place on open water, on windy days, and for anyone trolling along a structure trying to stay in one spot rather than drifting across it.
It also does nothing for steering while you are actually pushing the tiller hard at speed. This is a trolling-speed device. If you want authority when crossing a bay at full throttle, that is a different problem and a bigger motor.
3. besttruck Universal Transom Trolling Motor Mount – The Overbuilt Bracket for Drilling-In Setups
Universal Transom Trolling Motor Mount for Kayaks/Kayak…
Up to 3 HP clamp-on motors
Alloy steel and nylon
1.48 kg
Four-hole install
Pros
- Holds 55 to 80 lb thrust motors without shifting
- Stainless steel and nylon body
- Corrosion resistant and waterproof
- Works with power pole style mounts
Cons
- Included bolts reported too short on thin hulls
- Some Allen heads arrive loose
This is the bracket for the situation where your boat has a flat spot at the stern and you are willing to drill four holes. That rules out most soft inflatables but covers a lot of framed rafts, rigidized dinghies and modified hulls that do not have a factory transom panel. Once drilled, it is a permanent, rigid, vibration-free motor face.
The build is heavier than it looks at 1.48 kg, and that is the point. Kayak anglers running 55 to 80 lb thrust motors report it holds without flex or shifting, which is the failure that ruins cheap universal brackets. The body is black nylon plastic with stainless steel hardware throughout, and it is rated as corrosion resistant and waterproof.
Installation is four drilled holes and four bolts. There is no adhesive to cure and no clamp tension to lose, so once it is in, it stays in. The bracket also works with power pole style mounts, not just clamp-on motors, which widens what you can put on it.
Be clear about one limit: this is a bracket for clamp-on electric trolling motors up to 3 HP, and the manufacturer states it is not suitable for outboard engines of any size. If you want gas power, the Bestway kit later in this list is the one built for it.
Is your hull thick enough for the supplied bolts?
This is the single most repeated complaint in the reviews, and it is worth handling before you drill. On thin hulls the included bolts can bottom out before the bracket seats flat, which leaves a gap and a rattling joint. Measure your hull thickness and be ready to pick up longer bolts of the same diameter.
Also check the Allen heads after assembly. Several buyers report arriving loose, which is a five-minute fix with the right key but worth doing before you launch rather than in the middle of a lake.
Drilling versus clamping
Drilling is the trade. You get a mount that never moves, but you have four permanent holes in your hull and you should confirm the boat is built for it before you start. On a soft-sided inflatable that is a real commitment, and most owners of those boats are better served by an OEM kit or a track bar.
If your hull is a semi-rigid or framed inflatable with a load-rated deck panel, drilling is a reasonable call. If it is a classic drop-stitch fabric hull, choose one of the adhesive or fitting-based options instead.
4. NyVoozy Rudder Clamp – Budget Tracking Improvement for 24 to 55 Inch Motors
NyVoozy Rudder Clamp for 24 to 55″ Trolling Motors, Kayak…
Fits 23 to 32 mm shafts
Rudder 10.5 x 4.75 inch
0.26 kg
PA66GF30 body
Pros
- Improves straight-line tracking on small boats
- PA66GF30 body with SU304 stainless screws
- Seawater and corrosion resistant
- Installs in minutes
Cons
- Clamp can sit loose outside the 23 to 32 mm range
- Can limit depth adjustment
- Some screws may need trimming to fit
This is the lighter, cheaper alternative to the Bullnose, and it covers a wider motor range. Where the Bullnose is built around a 1 1/8 inch shaft, this clamp is specified for 23 to 32 mm shaft diameter, which spans most 24 to 55 lb class transom motors. That makes it a useful cross-check when your shaft size sits between the standard sizes.
Owners on flat-bottom jon boats and kayaks report the same tracking improvement, plus a secondary benefit that is easy to miss: with the boat holding a line more cleanly, the motor spends less time fighting corrections, which extends battery life on a given charge. At 0.26 kg the whole assembly is light enough to ignore on a small hull.
Material is where it justifies the rating. The body is PA66GF30, a glass-filled nylon composite, with SU304 anti-rust stainless screws, and it is specified for seawater and corrosion resistance. That is a better material story than most plastic hardware at this level, and it matters if you fish brackish or coastal water.
The 4.5 star average across 601 ratings sits just below the two rudder-and-kit leaders, and the reviews explain the gap: owners like the improvement, but a meaningful minority hit fit issues on newer, larger-diameter shafts.
Will the clamp hold on your shaft?
Measure the shaft diameter with a caliper and confirm it falls inside 23 to 32 mm. Outside that range the clamp can sit loose or shift out of line, and a loose rudder is worse than no rudder because it adds drag without adding control.
Some owners have to trim the rubber gasket pieces so the supplied screws reach. That is a small job but it is a known issue, so budget five minutes and a pair of scissors before you are on the water.
Check that it does not fight your motor
Because the clamp sits below the motor bracket, it can limit how far you can raise or lower the motor for depth control. Check your motor’s tilt and height range against where the clamp will land before you commit.
Stowing is the other quiet cost. This assembly does not collapse flat, so if your inflatable folds into a small bag for the car, you are unbolting it every time rather than leaving it on. The Bullnose is the same way. Plan for either a permanent install or a dedicated mount bag.
5. JCBIZ PVC Motor Fixing Brackets – Adhesive Anchor Points, Not a Motor Mount
JCBIZ 4pcs 75mm Rubber Boat Motor Fixing Bracket Buckle…
Four pieces per pack
75mm base with 20mm hole
0.09 kg
PVC construction
Pros
- Inexpensive and effective adhesive brackets
- Installs on horizontal or vertical surfaces
- Doubles as rope and tow line anchor points
- Reported to work on Sea Eagle inflatables and SUP boards
Cons
- Adhesion can weaken after a season or two
- Material feels harder than the rubber listed
- Fit can be tight on some inflatable tubes
Let us be direct about what this is. These are four PVC buckle brackets, 75 mm base with a 20 mm hole, that bond to an inflatable tube. They are not a trolling motor mount and they will not hold a motor.
What they do well is give you somewhere solid to clip a tow line, a safety leash or a paddle leash when there is no hard fitting on the boat.
That gap is common. Plenty of inflatable dinghies and SUP boards have zero attachment points, which is exactly the frustration that shows up in boating groups when someone asks where to tie off. Four of these on the bow, sides and stern of a boat cover it for very little money.
The side buckle shape is designed for a harsh marine environment, and the 2.95 inch profile is small enough to sit flat without catching. Buyers report good results bonding them to Sea Eagle inflatables and SUP boards with double-sided tape rather than a chemical adhesive, which is a faster install if you are not in a hurry for full cure.
What actually holds these on
Surface prep decides the outcome more than the bracket does. Clean the PVC with a solvent wipe, let it dry fully, and bond to a flat area of tube rather than a curved shoulder. The recurring complaint is not that the bracket is weak, it is that the bond degrades over a season or two as the PVC flexes and weathers.
Treat these as consumable hardware. If the boat lives outdoors, check them at the start of each season and expect to re-bond or replace them rather than trusting a two-year-old adhesive joint on a moving tube.
Where this fits in a motor setup
It pairs with a real mount. On a small motorboat, the trolling motor mount holds the motor and these brackets hold the safety line, the anchor painter and the paddle. Several owners in the reviews describe using them specifically as tow line anchors on an inflatable they motor to a fishing spot.
Skip this product entirely if you are looking for something to carry a 50 lb thrust motor. Nothing in the 75 mm PVC buckle is rated for that, and treating it as a motor mount is the fastest way to end up in the water with your motor.
6. Bestway Motor Mount Kit – the Only Mount Here Rated for a Gas Outboard
Bestway Motor Mount Kit
Up to 3.0 HP gas outboard
Stainless steel tube
Marine plywood board
2.45 kg
Pros
- Stainless steel tubing is rigid and strong
- Plywood board doubles as an accessory platform
- Fits up to a 3.0 HP gas outboard
- Easy assembly on most inflatables
Cons
- Does not fit Sevylor inflatables without modification
- Plywood and pressboard vulnerable to water damage
- Some kits arrive with damaged plywood
Every other bracket on this list is built for an electric motor only. This one is the exception, and that is why it earns a place even though it holds the lowest average rating in the group at 4.0 stars across 75 ratings. The manufacturer specifies it for motors up to a 3.0 HP gas outboard, and it also suits an electric outboard.
The construction is a marine plywood board on aluminum columns with an adjustable stainless steel tube. The stainless tubing is genuinely rigid, and the plywood board is wider than the transom area, which means it works as a flat platform for a transducer, a cleat or a small tackle tray. That dual purpose comes up repeatedly in the reviews as the feature owners did not expect to like.
At 2.45 kg it is one of the heaviest mounts in this comparison, and on a small inflatable that is a real consideration. A 3.0 HP gas outboard on top of it is a significant load on a hull with a finite capacity rating.
Will it fit your brand of inflatable?
The fitment is the weak point. Owners report that it does not fit Sevylor inflatables without modification, which is a specific enough warning to check before you order. The stated coverage is most other inflatable boats, and the adjustable stainless tube is what makes that possible across different hull widths.
If you own a Sevylor, or you are considering one, look for a mount that clamps or uses factory fittings instead. Forcing this kit onto an incompatible hull is how the plywood gets cracked in transit or the fittings get stripped during assembly.
Protect the plywood before it fails
Water damage is the recurring durability complaint. The board and pressboard components soften, swell and eventually delaminate if they sit wet, so sealing the edges with a marine sealant before first assembly buys you most of a season. Owners who skipped that step are the ones describing cracking.
Also check the plywood on arrival. Some kits show up with damaged or incomplete boards, which is an assembly issue rather than a design flaw but will stop your install cold. Inspect before you are at the water.
7. Brocraft Inflatable Kayak Motor Mount – The Widest Adjustable Bar for SUPs and Inflatable Kayaks
Brocraft Inflatable Kayak Electric Motor Mount/SUP Paddle…
40 inch marine aluminum bar
Nylon motor clamp
Adjustable hull width
Glue-on side pads
Pros
- Marine aluminum bar holds a 55 lb thrust motor
- Adjustable for a range of hull widths
- Easy to remove for paddling once bonded
- One year warranty included
Cons
- Glue and instructions not supplied
- Glue-on pads can pull up on curved hulls
- Highest priced item in this comparison
This is the track-bar approach, and it is the only option here built to span a wide inflatable kayak or SUP board rather than sit on a small flat stern. The 40 inch marine grade aluminum bar adjusts to different hull widths, and a nylon clamp with protection pads grips the motor shaft at the center.
Where it works is on reinforced PVC tubes with enough flat area for the two side glue-on pads to sit. Users in that situation report solid performance and holding a 55 lb thrust motor without complaint. The bar itself is the reason it can do that, since it spreads the load instead of concentrating it at one point.
Removing the motor for paddling takes under a minute once the pads are bonded. That is the real appeal for someone who uses one board for both purposes. The bar stays on the hull, the motor comes off, and you are paddling.
Plan for the adhesive cure properly
Glue is not included and neither are detailed placement instructions, which is the part that catches people out. A bond that is handled before it has cured will fail, and the failure mode is a pad lifting off the side of a moving hull. Clean the PVC thoroughly, clamp the pad flat, and leave it undisturbed for the full cure time the adhesive you use specifies.
Curved hull sides are where this mount struggles. Users on strongly curved inflatable kayak tubes report the pads pulling up under motor torque and having to add lashings or counterbalance weights. If your hull is noticeably round rather than flat-topped, a drilled bracket is the more honest choice.
Is it worth the price step up?
This is the most expensive item in our comparison and it has one of the smallest review bases at 46 ratings, with a 4.1 average. You are paying for marine grade aluminum and adjustability, and you get a one year warranty behind it.
If you need to fit one mount across an inflatable kayak and a SUP board, or you move between hulls of different widths, the adjustability earns its place. If you have one boat and one width, a stainless and nylon bracket does the same job for less.
8. Opheart Aluminum Transom Mount – the Most Rigid Bracket in the Group
Transom Trolling Motor Mount for Kayaks,Marine Aluminium…
5mm 5083 marine aluminum
3mm locking lip
Up to 86 lb thrust
Fresh and salt water
Pros
- Highest rated mount here at 4.9 stars
- Thick 5083 marine aluminum with no flex
- Locking lip keeps the motor secure in chop
- Matte black coating resists saltwater corrosion
Cons
- Only a 3 month manufacturer warranty
- Small review base of 35 ratings
- Some paddlers need an adapter or backing plate
This bracket is the highest rated product in the comparison at 4.9 stars, with 92 percent of ratings at five stars. The construction explains why. It is cut from 5 mm thick 5083 marine aluminum, which is the alloy used in marine hardware for a reason, and it carries a separate 3 mm aluminum locking lip that physically captures the motor bracket rather than relying on friction alone.
That locking lip is the feature owners single out. On a soft inflatable, a motor that shifts by a few millimeters at speed feels unsafe and steers badly. Kayak owners describe the lip as the reason the motor stays put in chop instead of walking loose on the transom.
The bolt pattern is the practical headline for most people. It matches a common 3.75 by 4.75 inch stern pattern, which on a lot of flat-stern kayaks and small boats means your existing holes line up and the install is four bolts. Rated for motors up to 3 HP or 86 lb of thrust, it covers the size of motor most inflatable anglers are considering.
Salt water compatibility is specified directly, and owners confirm it, reporting no corrosion after repeated coastal trips. The matte black powder coating does more than look good here; it is the layer doing the work against salt spray.
Does your stern have the bolt pattern?
Measure the spacing between your existing stern holes against the 3.75 by 4.75 inch pattern before you order. If your boat uses a different layout, you are drilling new holes, and on a soft-sided inflatable that changes the calculus considerably.
Some paddlers on models like the Hobie PA report needing an adapter or a backing plate. That is a hull-specific fix, and it is worth checking your boat model against owner reports before committing rather than after.
Read the warranty honestly
The manufacturer warranty is three months, which is the shortest in this comparison, and the review base is 35 ratings. Neither of those makes the product worse, but both mean less long-term data than the 8641 ratings behind the Intex kit.
What you are buying here is material quality and rigidity that no other bracket matches. If you run in salt water or push a heavy motor, that is worth more than a long warranty. If you are on a freshwater pond with a small motor, a stainless and nylon bracket is the more measured choice.
9. CWaveRow Flat Stern Transom Bracket – A Low-Profile Install That Disappears Into the Deck
CWaveRow Kayak Trolling Motor Mount – Flat Stern Transom…
Low-profile transom bracket
Stainless steel and UV nylon
Up to 3 HP electric
Four drilled holes
Pros
- Stainless steel and UV-resistant nylon body
- Low profile keeps the deck clean and drag down
- Installs in minutes with basic tools
- Suitable for fresh and salt water
Cons
- Small review base of 27 ratings
- Requires four permanent holes in the hull
- Not compatible with gasoline outboards
The design priority here is absence. This is a compact, low-profile transom bracket in stainless steel and UV-resistant nylon, and the whole argument for it is that once installed it sits flat enough to stop catching water, snagging gear or interfering with paddling. For a kayak that doubles as a paddle craft, that is a genuine benefit rather than a cosmetic one.
Like the other drilled brackets, installation is four holes and four bolts, and once it is in it is rigid and permanent. The materials are specified for both fresh and salt water, with UV-resistant nylon on the body and stainless steel on the hardware, which is the combination that ages best outdoors.
It is rated for clamp-on electric trolling motors up to 3 HP and is explicitly not compatible with gasoline outboard engines. Mounts a 50 or 55 lb thrust motor comfortably within that scope.
The 4.7 star average is good, and 89 percent of its 27 ratings sit at five stars, which is a strong showing on a thin sample. Feedback centers on a clean flush-looking install and corrosion-resistant materials, with the main caveat being simply that the product is new and does not have a long history yet.
Is your hull a candidate for four permanent holes?
This is the whole decision for this bracket. It needs a flat stern area large enough for the bracket and it needs four drilled holes to stay put. That suits a semi-rigid inflatable or a kayak with a reinforced stern panel, and it does not suit a soft drop-stitch tube you want to keep pristine.
If your hull already has a bolt pattern in roughly that area, this installs in minutes with basic tools. If not, you are committing to a permanent modification, and that is the same commitment as the besttruck bracket earlier in this list.
What the small review base means for you
Twenty-seven ratings tells you very little about how this looks after three seasons in sun and salt. The materials suggest it will age well, but that is a materials argument, not an evidence one.
We would pair this bracket with a more established option if you are nervous about that, or accept the uncertainty in exchange for the cleanest deck profile in the comparison. It is the one to pick when appearance and drag matter more to you than a deep review history.
10. CHGJ Heavy Duty Kayak Motor Mount – a Light Aluminum Frame With Stainless Hardware
Heavy Duty Kayak Trolling Motor Mount with Aluminum Frame…
Aluminum profile frame
PPC plastic bracket
Up to 3 HP electric
304 stainless hardware
Pros
- Aluminum frame keeps weight down on a small hull
- 304 stainless screws resist corrosion
- Simple four-hole installation
- Includes a 12 month warranty
Cons
- Only 29 ratings and thin long-term data
- Electric trolling motors only
- No outboard engine support
This bracket splits the difference between the heavy drilled mounts and the light adhesive ones. The frame is an aluminum profile with a PPC plastic bracket, which gives you corrosion-resistant structure without the mass of a solid plate. On a small inflatable kayak where every pound changes how the boat handles, that is a sensible starting point.
Hardware is 304 stainless steel throughout, including the mounting screws and accessories, which is the right call for anyone who will see salt water. Rated for clamp-on electric trolling motors up to 3 HP on flat-stern boats, and covered by a 12 month warranty that is longer than the Opheart bracket offers.
Install is the familiar four drilled holes. Nothing to cure, nothing to tension, no clamp that can loosen on the water. Once torqued, the frame does not move, and the plastic bracket absorbs enough vibration to keep the motor from working itself loose over a long day.
At 4.4 stars across 29 ratings, with 68 percent at five stars, the reviews are positive but short on long-term durability data simply because the product is recent. Buyers describe it as light but sturdy, which is precisely the design intent.
How does the weight compare on a small hull?
This is the bracket to shortlist if your boat is a fishing kayak or a small inflatable dinghy where weight is the binding constraint. An aluminum profile frame carries a 50 lb thrust motor without feeling like a slab of hardware bolted to the deck.
Note the important limitation: the frame carries a motor, it does not carry an outboard. The manufacturer is explicit that electric trolling motors only, up to 3 HP, with no outboard engine support. If gas power is the plan, the Bestway kit is the only fit in this comparison.
How much confidence should a 29-rating sample give you?
Honest answer: not much, and you should treat the warranty as the real protection. A 12 month warranty is meaningful on hardware, but it does not tell you how the aluminum profile looks after a full winter of wet storage.
What the reviews do establish is that the build matches the description and that the stainless hardware is genuinely there. If you want a proven bracket with a deep review history instead, the Intex kit or the Bullnose rudder are the better-evidenced picks, though they solve fitment problems this one does not.
Which Type of Trolling Motor Mount Does Your Inflatable Boat Need?
There are five mount archetypes in this category, and picking the right one saves you from a return. Here is how they break down.
1. OEM transom kit. The boat maker designed the fittings and the plate together, so this is the lowest-risk install and the best load distribution. It only fits that brand and those models, which is the entire tradeoff. Best for owners of a compatible Intex, Sea Eagle, Outcast or NRS boat who want the factory answer.
2. Universal clamp-on bracket. A stainless steel and nylon or aluminum arm that clamps around the inflated tube, often on a track bar that adjusts to hull width. No drilling, reversible, and it moves between boats. Best for owners who switch craft or want to keep the hull pristine. The Brocraft bar is the clearest example in this comparison.
3. Drilled flat-stern bracket. Four holes, four bolts, permanent rigidity. This is the strongest platform for a heavy motor and the best for a semi-rigid hull with a reinforced stern panel. It is a real modification to your boat, so confirm the hull is built for it. The besttruck, Opheart, CWaveRow and CHGJ brackets all sit here.
4. Adhesive deck or pad mount. Bonds to PVC without hardware. It never touches a drilled hole, but adhesion depends on surface prep and cure time, and curved tubes are the weak point. Best for light motors on flat-topped tubes and for owners who will not drill anything.
5. Bow mount. Moves the motor forward for better control in current, at the cost of front weight on a hull that trims by the stern. On inflatables it is usually a dedicated brand system rather than a universal part.
Add a sixth category to any of the above: the steering accessories. Rudder clamps bolt to the motor shaft, not the boat, and they change how the boat tracks. On open water and in wind they are often the difference between holding a spot and drifting off it. Our [best kayak trolling motor kits](https://www.rosenberryrooms.com/best-kayak-trolling-motor-kits/) guide goes deeper on the small-craft side of this.
How to Install a Trolling Motor Mount on an Inflatable Boat
Before you start, confirm the mount matches your hull. Measure the stern fittings, the tube diameter at the mounting point and the flat area available. Trying to adapt a mismatched mount is what causes torn transom strips.
Tools you need: a Phillips and a flathead screwdriver, a 4 mm hex key for the motor bracket, a cordless drill with a marine-grade bit if you are drilling, a tape measure, a pencil, and a sealant or adhesive appropriate to your mount type.
1. Inflate the boat to full pressure. Never install on a soft hull. Every dimension changes as pressure drops, and a bracket torqued on a low-pressure tube will be loose by the time you are on the water.
2. Dry and clean the surface. Wipe the mounting area with a clean damp cloth, let it dry fully, and for adhesive mounts use a PVC solvent wipe. This step decides whether a glued pad lives or dies.
3. Mark and check alignment. Lay the mount in position, mark the holes, and step back to confirm it lines up square with the motor’s travel. On an inflatable, off-center torque is what pinches the tube and causes a tear over time.
4. Drill if required. For flat-stern brackets, drill the marked holes at the specified size with a sharp bit, going slowly to avoid cutting fabric strands. Support the hull from underneath so you do not distort it.
5. Bed adhesive pads and let them cure fully. For glue-on mounts, this is the step most guides skip. Clamp the pad flat, leave the boat alone for the full cure time the adhesive specifies, and do not attach the motor before it is set. A pad handled early will pull up under torque on the first outing.
6. Fit the transom or clamp bracket. For OEM fittings, align the plate with the molded rear mount fittings and run the bolts finger tight first. For clamp-on brackets, tighten the clamp evenly on both sides rather than cranking one side down.
7. Mount the motor and set the trim. Bolt the motor bracket on, set the height so the shaft is clear of the hull, and confirm the motor raises and lowers smoothly with the motor off the water. Many steering complaints trace back to a motor set too low.
8. Add the rudder if you need tracking. Clamp the rudder onto the shaft, leaving the clearance the manufacturer specifies, and check that it does not block the motor’s depth adjustment.
9. Re-check everything after the first trip. Bolts on PVC can work loose as the tube flexes. Tighten once more after an hour on the water, and inspect the contact points for chafing before you leave the ramp again.
Battery and Wiring Setup for an Inflatable Trolling Motor
Nobody in the competitive set covers this, and it is the question that actually stops people. In the most active r/boating thread we found on this topic, an angler pairing a 50 lb Minn Kota Endura Max with an Intex Mariner 4 had already bought the motor and was stalled on power. That is the most common sequence of events, and it is entirely avoidable.
The setup below is what a working 50 to 55 lb thrust setup on a 10 to 12 foot inflatable looks like. Your own runtime will vary with load, current and how much of the day you run at full power.
1. Match the mount to the motor rating. A 50 or 55 lb thrust motor is comfortably inside the 3 HP and 3.5 HP class limits that the mounts in this comparison are rated for. Check the rating before you assume any bracket will carry a 55 lb motor. Weight also matters here, because the battery and motor are the heaviest part of the whole rig.
2. Size the battery in amp hours, not brand. A 50 lb thrust motor at speed draws roughly 20 to 30 amps, and throttle settings are linear from 1 to 5, so most of your day is spent in the middle of that range. A single deep-cycle 12V battery in the 50 to 100 amp-hour range is the usual starting point for a full day of trolling. A small group 24 size gets you a morning trip, not a day.
3. Use two batteries if you want a full day without charging. Two batteries in series give you 24V and roughly double your runtime. Alternatively, run two in parallel for longer at 12V, but only if your charger and your motor both support it.
4. Use marine-grade wire and marine-grade lugs. 6 AWG is the sensible floor for a 50 lb motor and most builders step up to 4 AWG for longer runs or heavier loads. Ordinary household wire and cheap lugs are the most common cause of a trolling motor tripping on overload protection. Keep the cable run as short as you can and secure it so it cannot chafe against the tube.
5. Mount the battery low and central. In an inflatable, weight distribution is everything. A battery sitting on the rear thwart under the motor adds stern weight that helps the bow ride, but a battery loose on the floor is a loose projectile in a swamping. Strap it down.
6. Add a battery gauge. A voltmeter or a lithium battery monitor is the cheapest insurance in the whole build. A trolling motor’s remaining charge is not obvious, and running it flat shortens battery life significantly.
Two safety notes. Lead-acid batteries vent gas, so keep them secured with the terminals protected and never leave one in a sealed compartment in direct sun. And run a fresh water rinse on the motor, mount and hardware after every saltwater trip, then dry before storing.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the best motor mounts for inflatable boats?
The best motor mounts fall into five types. An OEM transom kit from your boat maker is the safest fit and spreads load best. A universal clamp-on bracket with an adjustable track bar preserves the hull and moves between boats. A drilled flat-stern bracket gives the most rigidity for heavy motors. An adhesive pad mount avoids drilling entirely. A bow mount shifts weight forward for control in current. For most anglers on a compatible Intex boat, the INTEX 68624EP kit is the least risky starting point.
Can you attach a trolling motor to a paddle boat?
Yes, as long as the boat has a flat stern area or rear mount fittings to hold the bracket. Electric clamp-on motors up to about 3 HP work on most paddle boats with a suitable mount. Gas outboard engines are a different matter and need a mount specifically rated for them. Drilling four permanent holes is the most secure option but commits you to the modification.
What size motor for a 14 foot inflatable boat?
A 30 to 55 lb thrust motor is the working range for a 14 foot inflatable. On a 55 lb motor, keep the load light and save the top speed for crossing open water. Heavier motors add stern weight that changes how the hull rides, so match thrust to how much gear and how many people you are carrying.
How fast will a 55lb trolling motor push a kayak?
A 55 lb thrust motor moves a typical fishing kayak at roughly 4 to 5 mph on calm water, and a loaded inflatable dinghy noticeably less. Speed depends far more on hull weight, load and water conditions than on the thrust number. Most of your time is spent at low speed for trolling, where thrust matters more than top speed.
Will a trolling motor mount damage an inflatable boat?
A correctly sized mount on correctly inflated hulls will not puncture a boat. Damage comes from three habits: installing on a soft hull, over-torquing bolts on PVC, and using adhesive pads before the adhesive has fully cured. Inflate the boat to full pressure, tighten evenly on both sides, and follow the full cure time for any glue. If you are unsure, choose a clamp-on mount that touches the tube with pads rather than concentrating load on a bolt hole.
The Best Trolling Motor Mount for Your Inflatable Boat in 2026
After working through all ten, the INTEX 68624EP Motor Mount Kit is our pick for 2026 as the best trolling motor mount overall. It has the largest review base in the category at 8641 ratings averaging 4.7 stars, a named compatibility list covering nine Intex models, and an install that takes minutes with no drilling and no adhesive. It is not the most rigid bracket available, and it is not universal, but it is the one we would put on our own boat without hesitating.
For a non-Intex boat, match the archetype to your hull. A semi-rigid inflatable with a reinforced stern panel takes a drilled bracket, and the Opheart aluminum mount is the most rigid of those. A flat-topped PVC tube that will not be drilled takes an adjustable track bar, and the Brocraft mount fits a range of hull widths. If gas power is the plan, the Bestway kit is the only mount in this comparison rated for a 3.0 HP outboard.
And do not skip the steering. A rudder clamp on the motor shaft is inexpensive, weighs nothing on an inflatable, and is the difference between holding a fishing spot and drifting off it. If you are still comparing boats rather than mounts, our [best inflatable pontoon boats for fishing](https://www.rosenberryrooms.com/best-inflatable-pontoon-boat-for-fishing-and-relaxation/) and [premium inflatable dinghies](https://www.rosenberryrooms.com/best-premium-inflatable-boats-and-dinghies-for-recreation/) guides cover the hull side of the decision.
