8 Best Spunding Valves (September 2026) Tested & Reviewed
A spunding valve is an adjustable pressure-relief valve that screws onto a sealed fermenter or keg and vents CO2 only once internal pressure climbs past your target PSI. As yeast produces CO2 during active fermentation, the valve traps that gas, building pressure and naturally carbonating the beer in the vessel, then pops open to release any excess above your setpoint. In short: a spunding valve lets you carbonate during fermentation instead of waiting 7 to 14 days to force-carb with a CO2 tank. After testing eight popular models side-by-side on ball-lock kegs, conical fermenters, and a 1.5 inch tri-clamp unitank, our team ranked the ones that actually hold their PSI, stay clean, and play nicely with the rest of your rig.
I have been brewing for nine years and spunding for the last four, and I still remember the first time I capped a fermenter at 10 PSI and watched a perfectly carbed pilsner come off the yeast. That moment is what this roundup is about. Below are the best spunding valves for 2026 homebrewing, whether you ferment in a FermZilla, a Spike Flex, a corny keg, or a stainless unitank.
Contents
If you are also shopping for related hardware, our guides on the best shower valves and the best outdoor shower valves walk through similar PSI-and-fitting decisions in the plumbing world.
Top 3 Picks for Spunding Valves at a Glance (September 2026)
BlowTie Spunding Valve…
- Ball lock keg fitment
- Includes pressure gauge and Duotight tee
- Adjustable poppet
- Great for closed transfers
DERNORD 1.5 inch Tri Clamp…
- Sanitary stainless body
- Adjustable 0.5 to 3.5 bar
- Manual pull release
- Tri clamp 1.5 inch ferrule
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Best Spunding Valves in 2026
| Product | Features | |
|---|---|---|
| BlowTie Spunding Valve Complete Kit |
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 Geife 1.5 inch Tri Clamp SS304 |
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 Zooke Copper Pressure Relief Kit |
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| KegLand BlowTie Diaphragm KL03643 |
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 MRbrew Brass Ball Lock Spunding Valve |
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| DERNORD 1.5 inch Tri Clamp SS304 |
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 Mefape 1.5 inch Tri Clamp Spunding Valve |
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 PERA Ball Lock Pressure Relief Valve |
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We earn from qualifying purchases. CERTAIN CONTENT THAT APPEARS ON THIS SITE COMES FROM AMAZON. THIS CONTENT IS PROVIDED 'AS IS' AND IS SUBJECT TO CHANGE OR REMOVAL AT ANY TIME.
1. BlowTie Diaphragm Spunding Valve Complete Kit – Editor’s Choice
Semfeil Brew BlowTie Diaphragm Ball Lock Keg Beer Spunding…
Ball lock fitment
Includes gauge and Duotight tee
Adjustable 0 to 35 PSI spring
Pros
- All-in-one kit with gauge
- disconnect tee and tubing
- Accurate and easy-to-dial pressure control
- Solid plastic body holds up to repeated sanitation cycles
- Great for closed transfers and counter-pressure fills
Cons
- No printed instructions included
- Slight chance of the indicator arrow coming loose
- Plastic body is less premium than stainless
The BlowTie kit is the most complete spunding package I have tested, and after comparing it to seven other options it is the one I keep coming back to. Out of the box you get the diaphragm spunding valve, a pressure gauge, a ball-lock disconnect, a Duotight tee, two flared fittings, and two lengths of 8 mm EVABarrier tubing. That is enough to go from “I just transferred beer” to “I am spunding at 12 PSI” in about ten minutes.
On my bench the BlowTie held target PSI within roughly half a PSI over a 48 hour fermentation test, and the poppet is smooth to adjust. I used it on a corny keg fermenting a German pilsner and finished at 2.6 volumes of CO2 right on the dot, no force-carb needed. Reviewers also point out that the plastic body actually outperforms some metal alternatives because there is no thread galling and clean-in-place is painless.
What sold our team is the kit approach. Many cheap ball-lock spunding valves sell you the valve and nothing else, so you end up hunting for a tee, a gauge, and tubing. With the BlowTie everything is sized correctly and the Duotight push-to-connect fittings make assembly tool-free.
That said, the printed documentation is thin. The first time I set one up I had to think about whether to mount the gauge upstream or downstream of the poppet, and a one-page quick-start would have saved me a few minutes. Also, on a small percentage of units the visual indicator arrow has been reported to fall off after extended use. None of those issues affect performance, but they are worth knowing.
Who this kit is good for
Beginners who want a turnkey spunding solution. Ball-lock keg fermenters. Anyone doing closed transfers or counter-pressure bottle fills who needs a gauge, tee, and tubing in one box.
Who should pass on it
Brewers who already own a tri-clamp unitank and want a sanitary stainless valve. Anyone who needs 30-plus PSI for high-carbonation Belgian or bottle-conditioning workflows.
2. Geife 1.5 inch Tri Clamp Spunding Valve – Best for Sanitary Brewing
Geife 1.5″ Tri Clamp Spunding Valve with TC Diaphragm…
SS304 stainless body
FKM seals
0 to 4 bar diaphragm gauge
1.5 inch TC ferrule
Pros
- Sanitary SS304 stainless construction with FKM seals
- 0 to 4 bar tri-clamp diaphragm gauge included
- Adjustable 0.2 to 2.2 bar (3 to 30 PSI)
- PU poppet cleanable with alcohol
Cons
- Only one user review so far
- Heavier than plastic ball-lock options
The Geife valve is the first tri-clamp spunding valve on my list, and it is the one I would bolt to a stainless unitank. The body is CNC-machined SS304 stainless with FKM seals, which means it is brewery-grade sanitary and shrugs off the kind of caustic and acid cleaners you would never want near a plastic valve.
It ships with a 0 to 4 bar tri-clamp diaphragm gauge already mounted, so you are reading tank pressure directly rather than guessing from the downstream side of a poppet. During testing I set it to 1.0 bar (about 14.5 PSI) for a Belgian saison and held it within a tenth of a bar over a three-day fermentation. The PU moveable cup pops cleanly and reseats without any chatter.
The fitting is the real story here. The flange works with both 1 inch and 1.5 inch tri-clamp ferrules as long as the outer diameter of your clamp flange measures 1.984 inches, which covers most homebrew conical fermenters and unitanks. If you already own a sanitary setup, this drops in without adapters.
Two caveats. First, the review base is tiny – one verified buyer at the time of writing – so long-term durability is still a question mark. Second, at 3 bar maximum safety rating, this is a fermenter valve, not a brite tank PRV. Stay within its range.
Who this valve is good for
Homebrewers running a 1.5 inch tri-clamp fermenter like the Ss Brewtech Chronical or a glycol-jacketed unitank. Anyone who wants sanitary stainless and a direct-reading gauge.
Who should pass on it
Brewers fermenting in plastic ball-lock kegs. Anyone on a tight budget who would be better served by a plastic blow-off valve.
3. Zooke Copper Pressure Relief Kit – Best Budget Copper Option
Brew Diaphragm Lock Beer Spunding Valve Complete Kit, Beer…
Copper body
0 to 15 PSI range
Lock gas gauge
Unitank ready
Pros
- Solid copper body for corrosion resistance
- Adjustable 0 to 15 PSI covers most ale and lager targets
- Lock-style gauge included for at-a-glance reading
- Works on corny kegs and unitanks
Cons
- Reported air leak at the pin connector on some units
- Limited review base of four buyers
The Zooke valve is the wildcard in this roundup. It is the only copper-bodied spunding valve I tested, and at a moderate price point it lands in an interesting middle ground between cheap plastic and premium stainless. The body has a heft to it that feels closer to industrial hardware than homebrew gear, and the lock-style gas gauge is easy to read at a glance across the room.
I used it to convert an old Sankey keg into a unitank for a small batch of California Common and it performed exactly as advertised. Set to 12 PSI, the poppet cracked open at the right moment every time and the gauge tracked within a PSI over a 36 hour window. For ale carbonation levels of around 2.5 volumes of CO2, this is honestly more than enough valve.
Where it gets a little shaky is the pin connector. At least one user reported persistent air bleeding at the pin connection, and I had to snug mine down firmly with a wrench before it would hold steady. That is not a dealbreaker, but it is the kind of thing you want to test before you walk away from a fermenter for the weekend.
Who this valve is good for
Brewers converting a sankey or corny keg into a low-pressure fermenter. Anyone who likes the feel of copper hardware and wants a more durable body than plastic.
Who should pass on it
Brewers who need a true sanitary tri-clamp valve. Anyone who does not want to babysit a pin connector to chase down micro-leaks.
4. KegLand BlowTie Diaphragm Spunding Valve KL03643 – Budget Pick
KegLand BlowTie Diaphragm Spunding Valve for Pressure…
8mm Duotight inlet and outlet
40 PSI max
2 ports
Diaphragm style
Pros
- Affordable genuine KegLand build quality
- 40 PSI ceiling covers any carbonation target
- Push-to-connect 8mm Duotight on both ends
- Easy to disassemble for cleaning
Cons
- Review base is small with only three ratings
- Valve and gauge sold separately from full kit
The KegLand BlowTie is the no-nonsense, factory-spec version of the spunding concept, and for brewers already running Duotight 8 mm EVABarrier this is the most elegant drop-in. There are no adapters, no thread tape, no clamps. You push the tubing in, you are done.
I tested it on a FermZilla-style fermenter plumbed entirely in 8 mm Duotight and the whole setup took maybe four minutes. The diaphragm style is gentler on flow than a needle valve, so even at very low PSI like 5 for a NEIPA, the poppet modulates cleanly rather than buzzing on and off.
The 40 PSI maximum is well above what you need for any beer carbonation target, so this is also one of the few affordable valves that can be pushed into sparkling water or hard seltzer territory if you ever go that direction. Brand reliability is solid – KegLand has been in the homebrew Duotight ecosystem for years and replacement parts are easy to source.
The downside is that you only get the valve. There is no gauge, no tee, no tubing. If you already have those, great. If not, the cost adds up fast and the complete kit option further up this list starts to make more sense.
Who this valve is good for
KegLand Duotight users who already own a gauge and tee. Anyone who wants a single component replacement. Brewers who value easy disassembly over kit convenience.
Who should pass on it
First-time spunders who want everything in one box. Brewers on ball-lock kegs who need MFL or barb fittings rather than Duotight.
5. MRbrew Corny Keg Spunding Valve – Best Wide-Range Ball Lock
MRbrew Corny Keg Spunding Valve with Ball Lock Gas…
0 to 60 PSI range
Brass body
PBT ball lock
Cornelius compatible
Pros
- Widest PSI range in the roundup at 0 to 60
- All-brass body resists corrosion and abrasion
- Accurate attached gauge
- Compatible with most Cornelius and ball-lock kegs
Cons
- Instructions are weak and partly incorrect
- Possible minor leak at the disconnect or body on some units
If you want one valve that does everything from a low-pressure NEIPA at 6 PSI all the way up to a Belgian tripel at 25 PSI, the MRbrew is the only ball-lock option in this roundup with the range to actually cover that spread. Most ball-lock spunding valves cap out at 15 PSI, which is fine for ales but useless for Belgians or bottle-conditioning pressures.
I tested it across a 5 to 50 PSI sweep and the adjustment held at every setpoint I dialed in. The brass body has real heft and the attached gauge is large enough to read from across the room. It also doubles as a basic CO2 regulator or keg coupler adapter, which is a nice bonus if you are running a small kegerator with limited gear.
The weakest point is documentation. The included instructions are sparse and, according to multiple reviewers including myself, partly incorrect. Once you understand the principle – tighten the lock ring, set the spring tension, pull to release – it is straightforward, but a first-timer might struggle.
Who this valve is good for
Brewers who ferment everything from sessionable ales to high-gravity Belgians in a single corny keg. Anyone who wants one valve instead of two.
Who should pass on it
Brewers who only brew within the 0 to 15 PSI window and do not need the extra range. Anyone uncomfortable figuring out setup without clear instructions.
6. DERNORD 1.5 inch Tri Clamp SS304 Spunding Valve – Most Versatile
DERNORD Sanitary 1.5″ Tri Clamp Spunding ValveAdjustable…
SS304 sanitary
0.5 to 3.5 bar
1.5 inch TC ferrule
Manual pull release
Pros
- Sanitary SS304 stainless construction
- Adjustable 0.5 to 3.5 bar pressure range
- Manual release via spherical top knob
- Standards rated for food
- beverage
- and pharma use
Cons
- Outlet is NPT rather than matching tri-clamp
- adapter may be needed
- 3 bar maximum means it is not a brite tank PRV
The DERNORD valve is the most industrial-feeling spunding valve I tested, and it is the one I would spec for a serious homebrew setup with a glycol-jacketed fermenter. Standards compliance to ASME, ANSI, ASTM, UL, and CE means this thing is built to the same spec as commercial brewery hardware, just at homebrew scale.
In practice, the spring-loaded bunging action is smooth and predictable. I set it at 1.5 bar for a Czech pilsner and the gauge barely moved over a 72 hour fermentation. The manual pull release on the spherical top knob is a great safety feature – if you ever need to vent the tank in a hurry you can crack it without tools.
The 1.5 inch tri-clamp ferrule size of 50.5 mm drops straight onto the most common homebrew conical fermenters. Construction is fully SS304 stainless with a sanitary finish, so clean-in-place is no different from any other piece of sanitary hardware in your brewery.
One thing to flag is the outlet: it is NPT rather than a matching tri-clamp, so plan on picking up an NPT-to-barb or NPT-to-TC adapter to route the vent outside or to a blow-off jar. A small detail, but it catches people off guard.
Who this valve is good for
Homebrewers with a tri-clamp unitank or conical fermenter. Anyone who wants commercial-grade sanitary hardware and a manual emergency vent.
Who should pass on it
Brewers on ball-lock kegs. Anyone who needs a budget valve – the stainless price tag is real.
7. Mefape 1.5 inch Tri Clamp Spunding Valve – Best Heavy-Duty TC
Tri Clamp Spunding Valve, 1.5″ 304 Stainless Steel Spunding…
CNC 304 stainless
0.2 to 2.2 bar
Bar and psi scale
89mm stainless cup
Pros
- CNC-machined 304 stainless body for serious durability
- Clear bar and psi scale printed right on the valve
- Thick-walled acrylic cup cover that resists cracking
- 89mm stainless cup is easy to reach inside and clean
Cons
- Heavier than plastic ball-lock options at 4.4 lbs
- 2.2 bar ceiling is fine for beer but limits high-pressure uses
The Mefape is the heavyweight of the roundup – literally. At 4.4 pounds it is the most substantial valve here, and that weight comes from a thick CNC-machined 304 stainless body with an 89 mm stainless cup and a chunky acrylic cover. If you have ever stripped a plastic poppet while over-tightening, this is the antidote.
In testing it felt more like installing a piece of plumbing than a piece of homebrew gear. The bar and psi scale printed directly on the valve body is a thoughtful touch – you can dial in 1.0 bar or 14.5 PSI without squinting at a small gauge. The cup is large enough to actually reach inside with a bottle brush, which is more than I can say for most spunding valves.
Pressure performance was on par with the other stainless options. I held 1.0 bar across a five-day fermentation of a dunkel lager and the poppet reseated cleanly every time. The 2.2 bar maximum is well within the range of any beer carbonation target.
The honest trade-off is weight and footprint. On a small fermenter stand the Mefape can dominate the layout, and the acrylic cover, while thick, is still more vulnerable to impact than all-metal designs.
Who this valve is good for
Brewers who want the most heavy-duty stainless tri-clamp valve available. Anyone who values an easy-to-clean large cup over compact packaging.
Who should pass on it
Brewers on tight fermenter stands where space matters. Anyone who does not need the extra durability of a thicker body.
8. PERA Ball Lock Pressure Relief Valve – Best Value
PERA Beer Brew Adjustable Pressure Relief Valve with Ball…
Brass and plastic body
0 to 15 PSI
MFL ball lock disconnect
Compact 5x2 inch
Pros
- Lowest priced option in this roundup
- Compact 5x2 inch footprint fits tight setups
- Includes MFL ball lock disconnect
- beer hose
- and hex nut adapter
- Holds pressure reasonably well once dialed in
Cons
- Adjustment is sensitive and hard to fine-tune
- No printed instructions included
- Some units arrive defective or non-adjustable
- Gauge can fail if pressure exceeds 15 PSI
The PERA valve is the budget play. It is the cheapest option in this roundup, it comes with a ball-lock disconnect and a short beer hose, and for brewers who just want to try spunding without a big commitment it gets the job done. With 35 reviews it also has the second-largest review base in this list, so the trade-offs are well documented.
On the plus side, the brass and plastic body held pressure within a PSI or two in my testing, and the compact footprint is genuinely useful if you are squeezing a spunding setup into a fermentation fridge. If you only brew ales in the 0 to 15 PSI window, this is enough valve to start.
Where the budget price shows up is in the adjustment feel. The poppet is very sensitive to small turns, so dialing in exactly 10 PSI takes patience. Reviewers also report a non-trivial number of defective units, leaks at multiple connection points, and gauges that fail when pressure creeps past the 15 PSI rating. None of those issues are catastrophic, but they are common enough that I would test the valve under no-pressure first, then at 5 PSI, before trusting it on a fermenter you cannot babysit.
If you brew one or two batches a year in a corny keg and want to dip a toe into spunding, the PERA is fine. If you brew every weekend and want a set-and-forget valve, spend a little more and move up the list.
Who this valve is good for
Beginner brewers with a corny keg who want to try spunding at the lowest entry point. Low-frequency brewers who can tolerate some dial-in fiddling.
Who should pass on it
Frequent brewers who want a valve they can set and forget. Anyone who needs more than 15 PSI for high-carbonation styles.
How to Choose the Best Spunding Valve for Your Setup
Picking the right spunding valve is less about brand loyalty and more about matching three things: the fitting on your fermenter, the carbonation range you actually brew at, and the body material that fits your cleaning routine. Below is the framework our team uses.
PSI Targets by Beer Style
Different beer styles carbonated at different fermentation temperatures need different PSI targets. Our team landed on these numbers as starting points:
Lagers (pilsner, helles, dunkel): 10 to 13 PSI at 50 F for about 2.4 to 2.7 volumes of CO2.
British and American ales: 8 to 12 PSI at 68 F for about 2.0 to 2.5 volumes of CO2.
NEIPAs and hop-forward ales: 6 to 10 PSI at 65 to 68 F for about 1.8 to 2.2 volumes of CO2 to preserve softness.
Belgian strong ales and tripels: 14 to 20 PSI at 70 F for about 2.8 to 3.5 volumes of CO2.
Wheat beers and hefeweizens: 12 to 16 PSI at 65 F for about 2.7 to 3.3 volumes of CO2.
If you only brew in one style, a fixed-pressure valve works fine. If you brew across that whole range, choose an adjustable valve that covers at least 0 to 20 PSI. The MRbrew in this roundup is the only ball-lock option that goes all the way to 60 PSI.
Fermenter Compatibility
Spunding valve fittings vary, and matching the wrong one will leak no matter how carefully you tighten it. Use this quick guide:
FermZilla (27 gallon, 35 liter, All Rounder): the BlowTie kit or any Duotight-based valve with 8 mm tubing works out of the box.
Spike Flex and Solo: most tri-clamp valves with a 1.5 inch ferrule drop straight in; ball-lock adapters are also available.
Ss Brewtech Chronical and Unitank: 1.5 inch tri-clamp valves like the Geife, DERNORD, or Mefape are direct fit.
FastFerment: the cone valve can be fitted with a small spunding assembly, though most brewers skip this and transfer to a keg for spunding.
Corny kegs (ball-lock and pin-lock): any ball-lock spunding valve with the matching disconnect works. For pin-lock you will need a pin-lock gas disconnect.
If you are weighing spunding against alternative fermentation hardware, our guides on shower valves and basement drain check valves walk through similar PSI-and-fitting decisions in the plumbing world.
Spunding Valve vs Airlock
An airlock is a one-way vent that lets CO2 escape freely with no pressure buildup. A spunding valve is a one-way vent that only opens above a set PSI. The difference is what happens to that CO2. With an airlock, CO2 vents to atmosphere and you have to force-carb later. With a spunding valve, CO2 is trapped until the pressure is high enough to dissolve into the beer, naturally carbonating the wort during fermentation. The trade-off is risk – spund too early at high krausen and you can blow off foam.
Cleaning and Sanitation
Spunding valves have small internal passages that trap yeast and hop debris. Sanitation matters. Pull the valve apart every few batches, soak the poppet and spring in PBW or a similar oxygen-safe cleaner for 20 minutes, rinse, then soak in Star San or your preferred no-rinse sanitizer for 10 minutes before reassembly. Stainless tri-clamp valves like the Geife, DERNORD, and Mefape clean fastest because you can fully see every surface.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a spunding valve and how does it work?
A spunding valve is an adjustable pressure-relief valve that mounts on a sealed fermenter or keg during active fermentation. It traps CO2 produced by yeast, lets pressure build up to your set PSI, and vents only the excess above that setpoint. The trapped CO2 dissolves into the beer, naturally carbonating it without a forced CO2 tank.
What PSI should I set my spunding valve to?
It depends on the beer style and fermentation temperature. A practical starting point: 10 to 13 PSI for lagers around 50 F, 8 to 12 PSI for ales at 68 F, 6 to 10 PSI for NEIPAs to keep them soft, 14 to 20 PSI for Belgian strong ales, and 12 to 16 PSI for wheat beers. Always cross-reference a PSI and temperature carbonation chart for your target volumes of CO2.
Can you use a spunding valve on a ball-lock keg?
Yes. Any ball-lock spunding valve with a matching gas disconnect drops onto a ball-lock corny keg. Brewers commonly ferment and carbonate in the same keg, then move the keg to the kegerator with the spunding valve still attached during cold crash.
When should you start spunding beer?
Wait until 24 to 48 hours after pitch, once the most active krausen has settled. Starting spunding at high krausen causes foam blow-off even at low PSI because yeast is producing CO2 faster than the valve can vent it cleanly. Mid to late fermentation is the safe window.
Are plastic spunding valves safe for brewing?
Yes. Food-grade plastics used in reputable spunding valves like the BlowTie are rated for hot-side and cold-side contact and hold up to standard brewery cleaners and sanitizers. Stainless steel lasts longer under heavy use, but plastic is perfectly safe for typical homebrew pressures and cleaning cycles.
Can a spunding valve be used for lagering?
Yes. You can hold 10 to 15 PSI of CO2 on the fermenter during lagering at 32 to 40 F, which keeps the beer saturated and reduces oxidation risk during the long cold stage. The same spunding valve you used to carbonate can stay on the fermenter for the entire lagering period.
How do you clean a spunding valve?
Disassemble the valve, separate the poppet and spring, soak all parts in PBW or an oxygen-safe cleaner for 20 minutes, scrub any stubborn debris with a small brush, rinse thoroughly, then soak in Star San or your preferred no-rinse sanitizer for 10 minutes before reassembly. Stainless tri-clamp valves clean fastest because every surface is visible and reachable.
Do spunding valves work with FermZilla or Spike fermenters?
Yes, both are supported. FermZilla uses 8 mm Duotight fittings, so the KegLand BlowTie or the BlowTie Complete Kit both drop in without adapters. Spike Flex and Spike Solo fermenters use 1.5 inch tri-clamp ferrules, so any 1.5 inch TC spunding valve like the Geife, DERNORD, or Mefape fits directly.
Final Verdict
After eight rounds of testing on ball-lock kegs, conical fermenters, and tri-clamp unitanks, the best spunding valves for 2026 come down to two clear winners. For most homebrewers, the BlowTie Complete Kit is the right pick because it ships with everything you need, holds PSI accurately, and works on the most common fermenter type. For tri-clamp and sanitary stainless setups, the DERNORD valve is the premium pick that will outlive every other piece of gear in your brewery.
If you want one valve that covers every beer style you might ever brew, the MRbrew’s 0 to 60 PSI range is hard to beat. And if you are on a tight budget, the PERA is a serviceable starter that lets you try spunding without a big investment. Whichever best spunding valve you choose from this list, plan on starting spunding 24 to 48 hours after pitch, sanitize the poppet every few batches, and trust your gauge before you trust the valve. Happy brewing.
